Sunday, October 19, 2008

Day One "Let's off rd"

Where to start? I guess at the beginning and that would mean Heathrow Terminal 5 what a place. Check in terminals that print your boarding card and let you pick your seat, fast bag drops and no queues for security, they even promised not to lose my bags. I sat next to Martha on the plane who produces wildlife documentaries for the BBC, her main focus is Polar but as her sister lives in Zambia she’d managed to wangle the trip .Mind you 2 10hr flights for 2 days filming doesn’t sound that glamorous. It turns out that her sister’s brother in law’s partner (Keep up) is “Someone big” in the Aids community in Lusaka (Funded by the Bill Gates institute no less). Martha was kind enough to get me her number so I get 1st prize for best VSO networking before landing in Country, funny that, more networking than I managed in 20yrs at Coors?!
We arrived at 6am, it was 22c. I can confirm that Lusaka airport is not quite terminal 5, I had my first experience of “Africa time” whilst queuing at immigration, not only did it take forever but people were randomly whisked through the VIP channel for no apparent reason, I may have been more sanguine about this if I’d been selected, sadly not.
We were taken from the airport to the Barn Motel on the outskirts of Lusaka, a place that the phrase “Faded Grandeur” could have been invented for. However, it’s got 2 pools and a cool poolside bar, tough stuff this volunteering. We’re here for our first week of in Country training.
Induction amongst other things consisted of a day trip around Lusaka, where we went to Kenneth Kuanda’s house, the museum & a ”Cultural village” which was in the middle of an housing estate. At the Museum our educated & articulate told us about Kenneth Kuanda’s special walking stick that made him invisible to the police, enabling him to continue with independence struggle unhindered. After questioning it became clear that he took this very seriously and utterly believed in its mythical powers, he also told us about men in the Western province who still had the ability to turn into Lions and crocodiles at will?! This is a little concerning.
Tonight it’s the reception at the British High commission celebrating 50 yrs of the VSO. Zambia was one of the first four countries VSO went to and has been here for 46yrs. Interestingly, the High Commissioner should be High Commissioners as it consists of an husband & wife team who are job sharing in what I understand is an unprecedented act. Unfortunately and with perfect timing I got my first dose of “Delhi Belly” an hour before going so spent most of my time in the Commish’s Loo redecorating, I hope that’s not treasonable. I managed to attend and nearly look interested for the speeches but spent most of my time worrying about the fact that that the presenters were between me and the loo.